You Gotta Wander

This history of this country is more than just Genghis Khan, and its culture is more than yurts (preferably referred as “gers”). Here are some 15 things you need to know before going to Mongolia!

Nested on a desert steppe between China and Russia makes Mongolia a country not like any other. Unlike other countries in South East Asia and East Asia, where modern day variations of those cultures retain a significant amount of Indian or Chinese elements, Mongolia is something of its own, with influences from both whilst boasting a strong individual identity.

The nomadic lifestyle of the Mongolian peoples is still very much active today, and it is what makes this country such a rich cultural experience for any visitor.

If you are planning to visit Mongolia, here are 10 things you should know before going!

1. Mongolia does not have the largest population of ethnic Mongolians

Mongolia’s population of ethnic Mongolians is around 3.3 to 3.5 million people.

Contrary to expectations of homogenous Old World countries, this is less than the number of ethnic Mongolians in Inner Mongolia, China – where 4.3 million people are ethnic Mongolian (about 18% of the population of Inner Mongolia).

The history of Inner Mongolia is very complex, tying in with Mongolian movements during the early 20th century to wrest back independence from the failing / collapsed Manchu-led Qing Dynasty in China. Between 1911 to 1919, there were attempts made by the Inner Mongolian prince to establish a Greater Mongolia nation with the Bogd Khanate government in the newly independent Mongolia. This incorporated at least both current-day Mongolia and Inner Mongolia.

However, these attempts were apparently met with disagreement on both sides that was rooted in the different expectations and lifestyles either side had developed. For example, the Inner Mongolians were more accustomed to the Chinese-style agricultural lifestyle as opposed to a nomadic lifestyle, and were not enthusiastic about Russian-support, who supported the Bogd Khanate government in Mongolia. (Adle, Chahryar; Palat, Madhavan; Tabyshalieva, Anara (2005). Towards the Contemporary Period: From the Mid-nineteenth to the End of the Twentieth Century. Vol. 6. UNESCO. p. 361).

Once the Communist Party won the Chinese Civil War, the Mao Zedong government then re-organised the Inner Mongolian province into what it is today.

Whilst Mongolia now uses the Cyrillic script, Inner Mongolians have retained usage of the traditional Mongolian script and this is used throughout Inner Mongolia in an official capacity. Whilst the Mongolian in Mongolia is known as Khalkha Mongolian, the Mongolian of Inner Mongolia is based on the Chakhar dialect, which is similar to Khalkha Mongolian but different in many ways. However, sadly, the number of ethnic Mongolians in Inner Mongolia who can speak Mongolian is declining.

2. The horses are not ponies, they are just that small!

Also called Адуу (aduu), these horses are native to Mongolia. They are generally between 1.42 to 1.52 metres high.

They are generally known for their hardiness, as they have to survive temperatures that range between 40 degrees Celsius to -30 degrees Celsius. They do not need to eat anything other than grass, and might only drink water once a day. It is these traits that helped Genghis Khan move across such large expanses of land.

The Mongolian horses continue to live lives quite similar to that during the time of Genghis Khan. They are allowed to roam freely in the fields, with little interference from humans.

The mares are generally milked once every 2 hours, and this milk is often used to make the traditional airag – the fermented horse milk alcoholic drink.

3. There are rules inside a ger

Please don’t call them yurts in Mongolia. Use the correct term – ger. It means “home” in Mongolian. Yurts are the Russian term, and refer to similar structures in Central Asian countries that often only have one central pole.

Interestingly, gers are a sort of compass – the door always faces south.

When you are in a ger, there are a few rules to follow. When in Rome, do what the Romans do.

• Never walk between the two poles holding up the ger. Each of the poles represents a male and female deity, and walking between them is an act of separating the deity couple. The reason why there is a fireplace in the middle is to stop children from running in between them – kids know to avoid fire better than empty space.
• Always sleep with your feet to the door, and head to the other side of the ger. Generally, the north side of the ger will feature an altar to Tenger, or to Buddhist enlightened beings. Think about it this way, you wouldn’t want a stranger’s feet in your face would you? No? Well neither do the beings that we cannot see but are there regardless!
• Walk to the left of the ger unless otherwise advised. The left side of the ger is the guest side, whilst the family side in on the right. The north side is reserved for the eldest or honour person, in addition to the altar.
• Walk clockwise.
• The fireplace is sacred. Never put your feet towards that either.
• Do not step on the ledge at the door. In many Asian buildings, temples, palaces, and structures, door frames have four sides, not just three – the side that is on the ground! Do not step on that ledge as you are walking through the door. Step over it, no matter how high it is. This ledge is considered the neck of the ger.
• Always accept anything given to you. You do not have to finish it though.

4. Ulaanbaatar is the coldest capital city in the world

Ulaanbaatar is the coldest national capital in the world, with the average daily maximum across the year of 6 degrees Celsius, and average daily minimum of -5 degrees Celsius. The yearly daily mean is 0.2 degrees Celsius.

On the extremes, the city can get to 33 degrees Celsius in June, and -37 degrees Celsius in January.

Fun fact, Ulaanbaatar is in a zone of discontinuous permafrost, meaning the ground below will have patches of frozen soil. This happens when the soil is sheltered or in a shadow that prevents thawing in summer. This makes building in Ulaanbaatar difficult.

5. Never ask the driver how much time a drive will take, just ask the distance

Apparently this only invites bad luck, and can influence the journey to end badly. I mean, if you hold the driver accountable to the time they say it will take, won’t the driver be pressuring themselves to meet that time when the desert roads are anything but smooth? We all know how rushing things can end.

Also never joke about the vehicle breaking down or having a flat tyre.

6. The symbol on the Mongolian flag means everything

The symbol on the Mongolian flag is known as the Soyombo symbol. There are 10 parts in the Soyombo symbol. From the top:

• Fire: this represents eternal growth and wealth, with the three flame tongues representing past, present and future.
• Sun (circle) and Moon (crescent): these represent the eternal blue sky embodied into the Mongolian state
• Triangles (top and bottom): these represent the defeating of internal and external enemies, hence the downward shape of the triangle.
• Horizontal rectangles (top and bottom): these represent the honesty and justice of Mongolian people, both of which give stability to the Mongolian people.
• Yin yang: this represents the Mongolian people, and they are two fish whose eyes never close, symbolising the vigilance of the Mongolian people.
• Vertical rectangles: these are the walls and allude to the Mongolian proverb that friendship of two is stronger than stone walls.

But what is Soyombo? Soyombo refers to the Soyombo script made by the Mongolian Buddhist monk Zanabazar in 1686. In the Soyombo script, the Soyombo symbol is used to mark the start and end of a text.

In terms of what the Soyombo script actually looks like, here is an example:

This script was not only used to write Mongolian, but is also used to write Tibetan and Sanskrit. It is an abugida system based on Brahmi (which is also an ancestor to Nepali writing scripts).

7. Ulaanbaatar is a big Korea-town

Besides the convenience stores that sell Korean products such as ready-to-eat kimbap, or bulgogi bowls, there are a significant number of Korean restaurants and cosmetic stores in Ulaanbaatar.

There are many reasons why this is happening. There are many budget airlines flying between various South Korean cities and Ulaanbaatar during the peak season. Adding to this, there is also a sizeable South Korean diaspora living in Ulaanbaatar, who have opened up many Korean restaurants and convenience stores.

On the other hand, there is also local demand for Korean culture and products. The hanllyu (South Korean culture wave) seems to have taken a stronghold in Mongolia, with many local Mongolians having a strong affinity with Korean pop culture and cosmetics. With a median age of around 26 years old, this young population has been quick to embrace Korean culture.

A Korean nickname for Ulaanbaatar is “Mongtan” – mashup of Mongolia and Dongtan, a planned city south of Seoul.

8. Be careful with some of the information in museums

Whilst I appreciate that the Mongol Empire spanned a significant amount of land under both Genghis’ and his descendants’ reigns, I do have a qualm with overzealous claims made in both the Chingghis Khan Museum and National Museum about its culture and territorial expanse.

At various points, there are maps that indicate Vietnam and Japan as being part of the Mongol Empire, particularly as a consequence of Kublai Khan’s conquests. That is, (un)fortunately, incorrect. Whilst attempts were made to conquer both, Mongol forces failed to acquire Vietnam due to the presence of malaria and inability to pivot strategies in water combat. In respect of Japan, the Mongol forces were repelled by typhoons, twice.

There are also, at various points, claims that the “Jin Dynasty” of China are ancestors of / tribes of Mongolian people – there is a gallery at the National Museum showing the traditional dresses of various Mongolian tribes, one of which includes the “Jin” people. Either this claim has been made erroneously or there is some other reason for it, but the Jin Dynasty was established by the Jurchen people. These are the same people that established the Qing Dynasty in China, of which the Mongolian people were oppressed by for hundreds of years and wish to distinguish themselves from. The Jurchen people are a Tungusic people from the eastern Siberia and are not ordinarily considered Mongol, and are different in that they were generally more sedentary and agrarian.

There is also not much information about the Il-khanate, the Golden Horde or the Chagatai Khanates – all of which originated from Genghis Khan’s original Mongol Empire. Whilst Kublai Khan’s Yuan Dynasty was arguably the successor state to the Mongol Empire, the Mongolians had a heavy influence on other regions of which it conquered. That history would have been great to read up on, but no museums really feature information on it.

As such, it would be prudent to read up on the history of Mongolia before visiting the museums, as with museums in any country.

9. The relationship between modern Mongolia and the ancient Xiongnu / Hunnu people is debated

Whilst there is no doubt that the Xiongnu Empire was located where current day Mongolia is, academic research is still uncertain as to whether Xiongnu people were Turkic, Mongolic or Iranic in origin.

Obviously, nomadic cultures tend to move around, and so it may be the case that the current descendants of the Xiongnu people are not only the Mongolians, but can also include other Turkic peoples (such as Uyghurs) or Iranic peoples. It also means that the spread and lineage between certain cultures is harder to pin down.

It has only recently become widely accepted that the Xiongnu people are related to the Huns that invaded Europe / the Eastern Roman Empire – especially under the reign of Attila the Hun.

10. The legend of Mulan is connected to Mongolia much more than the way Disney says

Mulan is based on a ballad poem from the Northern and Southern Dynasties period in China (5th to 6th century AD). It is a legend, based on a daughter who takes her father’s place in the conscription by disguising herself as a man. After her service in the military, she declines a high office position and returns home. Once home, she reveals to her comrades that she is a woman.

Whilst being a legend, it is commonly accepted that Mulan was operating during the Northern Wei dynasty due to the cultural and historical references in the ballad.

For example, the ballad of Mulan refers to Black Mountain and Yanran Mountain, and both mountains feature in the Northern Wei dynasty’s offical record about a military expedition against the Rourans in 429.

Interestingly, the Northern Wei dynasty was established by the Xianbei people, who are proto-Mongols. The dynasty was often marred by incursions by the Rouran peoples, who are also proto-Mongols. There is even a line of thought that believes Mulan may have been Xianbei (i.e., porto-mongolic) herself. This makes the legend of Mulan more connected to Mongolia than commonly believed.

In the Disney movies, the nomadic enemies are called the “Huns”. Whilst the spirit of this reference is correct in that it refers to Mongolic tribes invading China, as noted above, there is continued debate about the relationship between Mongolians and Xiongnu people. Additionally, the Xiongnu, by the time of the ballad of Mulan during the Northern Wei dynasty, had faded away from being the main northern invaders of China and were replaced by the Xianbei and Rouran peoples.

11. Ulaanbaatar started out as a Buddhist tent monastery that moved around frequently

For a long time before 1639, the area in which Ulaanbaatar is situated has hosted imperial tombs and been along a route to the Khentii mountain region from Karakorum. In 1639, a ger monastery called the Örgöö (palace-ger) was set up as the seat of the then Buddhist leader Zanabazar. It was then continuously the seat of the Buddhist leader and moved at least over 20 times including to the Orkhon rivers and Inner Mongolia. In 1778, it finally settled in its current location.

In 1911, when the Qing Dynasty was in its final years, the Mongolian leaders met on Mt Bogd Khan Uul the then Buddhist leader (a Jebtsundamba Khutughtu) declared ruler – the Bogd Khan. As such, it was logical that the Buddhist leader’s seat was also declared the capital. And so the leaders proclaimed Ulaanbaatar (then called Ikh Khüree) as the capital.

12. Most cars (and I mean, nearly all) are second-hand imports from Japan

When you go for a walk around Ulaanbaatar for the first time, you will notice that there are a lot of Toyota Prius! Sometimes you will see 7-8 of them pass you consecutively.

This has been the result of a range of policies by the Mongolian government whereby many countries around it can export their second hand vehicles to Mongolia, low import taxes as well as stamp duty exemptions on these vehicles. As a result, many of the Toyota Prius you see are second hand from Japan.

There are many reasons why these cars are very popular.

• Firstly, being a hybrid, 100 to 150km of range will come from the battery, and then 800 to 1000km will come from the petrol engine. This is practical with Mongolia’s long distances.
• Secondly, Ulaanbaatar’s air quality during winter deteriorates significantly, and so Prius cars are often viewed as a way to reduce emissions and tackle the city’s air problem.
• Thirdly, secondhand vehicles tend to cost around $2,000 to $6,000. Noting the median wage in Mongolia, this price range is comparatively affordable for the majority of people.

13. Domesticated Bactrian camels look anything but

When my tour guide showed me around the museum near Yolyn Am, he asked the group “between these two camels, which one is the domesticated one and the wild one”. In front of us were two taxidermies of Bactrian camels, one hairy and one short-haired. Most of the group said the hairy one was the wild one.

To our surprise, it was the short-haired one that was the wild one. This was all the result of selective breeding, whereby the hairier one was able to produce fibres for nomads to make coats out of to survive the Mongolian winter. The wild ones are short-haired because this allows them to travel the vast Gobi and find food without trapping too much heat.

14. Karakorum (near Kharkhorin) might be rebuilt

Once the capital of the Mongol Empire under Genghis Khan between 1235 and 1260, and then of the Northern Yuan dynasty between 1371 and 1380 after the Yuan dynasty fell to the Han Chinese-Ming dynasty, this city was ransacked by the Ming Dynasty in 1380.

In 1585, the Erdene Zuu Monastery was built next to the ruins of Karakorum using materials from the ruins. Apparently, the city of Karakorum was 10 times the size of the walled-site in which Erdene Zuu Monastery sits.

However, it will be quite some time before we see a Pompeii-style excavation of the ruins of Karakorum, as this will require a lot of money and government approvals.

In 2023, the Mongolian government announced a plan to rebuild the city, but these plans have not eventuated yet.

To see what Karakorum would have looked like in its heyday, you should visit this virtual tour Virtual Karakorum Project.

It was developed by the hard work and collaborative efforts between the National University of Mongolia, the University of Applied Sciences Dresden and the University of Bonn.

15. Kazakhs are the largest non-Mongolian ethnic group

93% of the population of the westernmost province of Mongolia, Bayan-Ölgii, are Kazakh. This province is home to the famous Altai Mountains, and the Kazakhs that live here are also known for their eagle hunting practices. Every October, they host the Golden Eagle Festival.

Kazakhs came to Mongolia during the 19th century when the Russian Empire pushed Kazakhs to other countries.

As such, if you ever see any eagle hunters (i.e., people hunting with eagles), they are most likely Kazakh people. You can also see eagle hunting practices all over Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

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